Sewing My First Jacket
Have you ever wondered how many hands have touched your clothes before you put them on? The thought always unsettled me, paired with feeling disconnected to the clothes I purchase in general. When I shop for clothes, I often feel like I make exceptions- the garment doesn’t fit my body quite right, it isn’t made to my standard of quality, or I spend way more on it than I think it’s worth (regretfully).
It is no secret that there are major issues within the fashion industry, from human rights abuses to contributing to global climate change. To be completely honest, I don’t want to own a bunch of clothes I will never wear. I rather have a few spectacular quality pieces of clothing that can work for many outfits.
If I could make my own clothes, they would be tailored specifically to me: my size, favorable fabric, crafted to last, and with meaning imbued in the stitches. The idea of sewing clothes, however, intimidated me to the point of being too scared to start. On my birthday, and with encouragement from my artistic sister, I decided to take on the challenge and sew an adorably cute cropped jacket. Here, I will explain my process, outlining the major steps I took.
If you are a beginner at sewing and would like to make clothes but don’t know where to start, perhaps this will give you insight as to what to expect in the process. Remember that you can’t get good at something without trying it first. Trial and error is key for growth. Let’s begin!
10 Step-by-step process:
The first step is to make sure you have access to the sewing tools you will need. I used a sewing machine, needles, pins, cotton thread, sashiko thread (for the extra detailed stitching), scissors, rotary cutter, washable pen, and iron and ironing board. I find that a cutting mat and hard surface (like a table) is essential for cutting larger pieces of fabric.
Next is to search for a pattern. There are infinite options out there- just look for your favorite style of clothing online, or at a fabric store. The pattern should indicate the level of difficulty, from beginner to advanced. I chose the Hovea Jacket Pattern from Megan Nielsen Patterns, which is a beginning level pattern. Prices vary when purchasing a pattern, but the cool thing is that it’s a great investment- once you buy it, it’s yours forever! If you keep the pattern pieces organized, you can make the same garment, or different versions of it.
Once you select the pattern, find some great fabric. Now this is the fun part! Depending on the type of garment you’re making, you want to make sure that the fabric you choose is compatible. For example, you wouldn’t want to use spandex material for a silk top pattern. Instead it would be wise to use silk. Why? The quality and dynamic function of fabric varies immensely, and depending on what you choose, it could make it easier or harder to work with. To add, find thread that will match or compliment your fabric.
Find your size. On the pattern, there will be a chart of sizes that will inform you of the amount of fabric yardage to purchase. If you aren’t sure how much to purchase, ask for help from a customer service representative at a fabric store. They can be very helpful in determining the amount of yardage you will need. (Tip: Get sufficient fabric. If you are under, it’s harder to work with. If you get slightly more, there’s room to make mistakes.)
Read the instruction booklet and get familiar with the steps. This is your roadmap from start to finish. When I read about sewing terms and techniques I did not recognize, I looked them up on Google and watched tutorials on Youtube. Luckily, the Megan Nielsen pattern has a sew-along blog that shows you step-by-step how to sew the garment if you get stuck or need creative ideas.
Pre-wash fabric to account for shrinkage. Machine or air dry your fabric (before you cut it), then iron the fabric to get the wrinkles out. Ironing the fabric helps it to remain flat while cutting and sewing.
Cut the pattern on the line corresponding with your size (or according to the size of the person you are sewing the garment for). I am size 8, so that is where I cut along all of the pattern pieces. It will be labelled on the pattern.
Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric to hold them in place. Use a roller cutter or scissors to cut your pieces. Be sure to cut with precision and stay on the line.
Begin sewing the pieces together in the sequence of instructions. If you need help, look for blog posts on the pattern. When I got stuck or didn’t understand the instructions completely, I went to the Megan Nielsen pattern sew-along blog that shows you step-by-step how to sew the Hovea Jacket in different variations.
Trust yourself and the process. Be patient, take it slow, re-read instructions if needed, and enjoy the fact that you’re making clothes! That’s a pretty big deal. I think you will be amazed once you start to see all of the pieces coming together.
The process: photos from behind the scenes
The Hovea Cropped Jacket has become a new beloved collection in my wardrobe. It is designed to be spacious enough to fit a sweater underneath, and the sleeves are long enough to roll up. I used two ties to make a cute bow in the front, and also made lined pockets with a divider that securely fits my cellphone. For versatility, I made it reversible, and that way I can also show off the different fabrics.
This is a quilted version of the jacket and it keeps me warm on a crisp windy day. For a unique flare, I used the sashiko stitch to quilt the top fabric, lining, and batting all together. This step took me a very long time because it is all hand-sewn, but it was worth the extra step. The outcome is a simple yet refined look that I’m really happy with.
All in all, I would say that I struggled healthily in this process. I learned new sewing techniques and the mechanics of assembling a jacket. Although it took me over 3 months to complete (I worked on it during evenings and weekends as I had a day job) it was worth all of the time it took. There were unexpected delays, for example, I had to take out stitches sewn wrong, I skipped steps accidentally, and I added extra details to the jacket that made it unique to my style.
Making the jacket from start to finish gave me the confidence to make more clothes. I hope this inspired you to make clothes as well!
Naima is the founder of Patchamima, a small woman of color owned business that makes patches, tapestries, masks, and garments from up-cycled fabrics. Their mission is to make slow fashion, fashionable, while bringing awareness to global issues.